Classic or Contemporary?

This question is one that is often raised within FOTF forums and also at registration desks when selecting a category to enter. Creating a standard set of guidelines to define both categories, based on what clubs are looking for, is also problematic. Clubs often have differing views within their own guidelines and at the times the complete opposite – no guidelines. Classic and contemporary categories are therefore subjective to, not only the club, but also to the opinion of the individuals entering and of course those tasked with judging.

When attending an event that has both classic and contemporary categories, some clubs ask entrants to self-nominate the category they wish to enter. Whereby other clubs have the judges choose which category entrants will be entered into when on stage. 

If you are asked to self-nominate a category and as the entrant are unsure which to enter, my advice is to see if a club has their own guidelines on what they consider to be ‘classic’ and 'contemporary’. Another suggestion would be to ask to speak with a member of the Organising Committee to see if the judges have been briefed on what constitutes classic v’s contemporary. If there is no guidance, go with what feels right to you.

As a judge, I will always consult with the clubs entry guidelines particularly if guidance is given with regards to classic v’s contemporary attire. However, it is important to remember that guidelines are just that and are not strict ‘rules’.  Judges have the right to make their decisions based on what they feel is the best dressed on the day. 

Here are a few general guidelines that I consider when thinking about my own outfits as ‘classic’ or ‘contemporary’:

Classic

1. Hemlines generally knee length to midi length 

2. Classic cuts of garments

3. Traditional tailoring

4. Classic footwear ie standard pumps, sandals etc 

5. Traditional style millinery

6. Traditional accessories 

Contemporary

1. Large embellishments and features

2. Brighter colours ie fluorescent 

3. Clashing and bold prints, colours etc 

4. Hemlines of any length - mini to maxi

5. Less structured 

6. Possibly more skin exposed within FOTF general guidelines 

7. Cutting edge millinery including shapes, materials and/or embellishments

8. Modern/unexpected fabrications of garments and/or millinery eg plastic, metals etc 

9. Avant-garde footwear ie mismatched heels

10. Boundary pushing of general FOTF standards (without breaking all of the ‘rules’)

11. Currently at the height of design and innovation ie ‘on trend’ - this makes contemporary very fluid and changeable 

My guidelines above have been derived through reading the expectations of many clubs over the years but also through years of experience. 

Defining classic and contemporary is not always straight forward, even for seasoned competitors of many years. Some outfits are clear cut ‘classic’ or ‘contemporary’, however other outfits could be considered both classic and contemporary due to having elements of both.

An example of when I thought I would be entered into the contemporary category but ended up winning the classic category was when I wore a neon yellow top, heels, bag and millinery with a white neoprene skirt, finished off with neon yellow eyeliner. To me the colours & fabrication screamed ‘contemporary’, however the skirt was a midi length full skirt & the top had a giant bow loop at the back, two elements which could be considered ‘classic’ styling. On that particular day, all ladies entered the stage in heats and the judges determined the finalists of both classic and contemporary from the general heats. I was surprised to make the ‘classic’ final, however when compared to the ‘contemporary’ winner who was wearing a pantsuit in a bold print, I did look very ‘classic.’ See image below:

Another example of my contemplation of this topic would be when considering my Derby Day outfit from Flemington in 2022, as I believe it has both classic and contemporary elements. If considering whether this was more of a ‘classic’ or ‘contemporary’ look, I would weigh up which of the elements it was more heavily weighted towards. The ‘classic’ elements would be the style and length of the dress, the Dior style brim, classic pumps, traditional updo and makeup, simple pearl earrings finished off with a top handle bag. On the other hand, the fabric of the dress being made from calico with windows in the dress made from rattan are unexpected for any outerwear garment, especially race wear, so therefore could be considered ‘contemporary’.  Overall if I had to choose I would consider the outfit to be ‘classic’ as it has more of these elements overall. See image below:

Here are a few of my outfits from over the years that I believe fit more in to the ‘classic’ category:

In comparison, these outfits and their styling I feel are more ‘contemporary’:

You may or may not agree with my selections, but that also shows how subjective this topic can be! Going through photos of my competition outfits really had me analyzing my own style, with many outfits having elements of both classic and contemporary. In summary, I believe I could give my personal style a description as ‘classic with an edge’. 

As an experienced competitor, I believe it is good to experiment with both classic and contemporary styles as a part of your personal style evolution, although you may naturally lean more to one or the other. Including unexpected elements as a part of your outfit may be a point of difference to the judges that grabs their attention and makes you stand out in the crowd! Only wear what you feel confident in but don’t be afraid to take risks, even if it is as simple as not always wearing gloves with an outfit. Risk taking is a part of personal style education! 

FOTF has advanced from when I first began competing, as back then a pantsuit or jumpsuit on a lady would automatically be considered ‘contemporary’, whereby both types of outfits could fit into either category depending on their cut, fabric and styling in current times. The evolution of FOTF moving towards gender neutral categories in some areas also eliminates these categories at some competitions, with some competitions opting to have only one category for any gender, or renaming categories to be named ‘best dressed’, ‘best suited’ & ‘best frocked’ as some examples.

I believe that prior to attending any FOTF competition, see what categories are on offer, as the need to choose a category may not be an issue. You may discover you have a theme to dress to instead! If faced with making a decision of which category to enter, choose the category you believe you best fit, but do not overthink it too much. Have fun wearing your outfit, enjoy your experience and let your personality shine on the stage! Having the opportunity to enter FOTF is a privilege and we should be thankful to clubs who give us opportunities to not only enter FOTF but also provide us with options of more than one category! 

Emma Scodellaro June 2023